EGR

EGR: Trouble Code #32

Hey all,

What exactly does the trouble code 32 (California models only) mean..........I know it says that the code is for EGR function but what exactly?........bad EGR valve or what.....please help...............

Later,

Oecam

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OK, hold on, you asked for it!

It means that somewhere in the EGR circuit there is a malfunction. It could be the valve itself, maybe a bad vacuum connection, electrical connection, or even a bad ECU. Not to dispel gloom or doom, we just want you to know that the subsystems on our beloved are pretty intricate. Hence our constant nagging to invest in a Factory Service manual to help those so inclined to investigate and repair these types of situations.

With the engine running, pull the vacuum hose from the valve and be sure that there is not any vacuum at idle. Then rev the engine to about 2k rpm. There should be vacuum felt at the end of the hose. This being the case, check the EGR control valve, BPT valve and the Exhaust Gas Sensor. (We know, you're thinking you've now bit off more than you can chew!)

Check the EGR control valve by pushing up on the diaphragm from underneath while the engine is running. It should make the engine run rough indicating it's working.

Want more?

To check the BPT valve, remove the hose from it and apply a vacuum to one of the two top ports (plugging the other). If you find it leaks, replace it.

The Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor is removed and put into water of 100 deg. C (212 F.) Resistance should decrease in response to temp. increase. At 100 deg. C, resistance should be 85.3 +/- 8.53 k ohms.

OK! Where were we?

If you didn't get vacuum at the right time in checking the EGR control valve it's time to start checking the voltage of terminal #105 on the ECU. At idle, you'll have 0v. With 2k rpm your voltmeter should give battery voltage readings. (approx. 12v) If that looks OK, then check the vacuum hose for clogging, cracks and proper connections. If you don't get those readings, it's off to make sure that the EGR & Canister Control Solenoid valve is getting proper voltage. 12v again. If not, check the harness connectors and fuse.

With that out of the way, it's time to look at the EGR & Canister Solenoid valve. Applying battery voltage to the valve and checking which ports have air flow will indicate whether the valve is good or not. There are 3- ports on the valve. One on each end and one pointing straight up. The one pointing up is "A". We'll call the one on the end opposite the electrical connection "B" and the other end "C". With battery voltage applied air will pass thru A & B, not thru A & C. Without voltage applied, it's just the opposite. No air through A & B and air goes thru A & C.

Clear the ECU of Malfunction Codes, take a test drive and check the codes again. If you still get a code, verify the previous test and check the ECU pin terminals and the harness for damage. (Be VERY careful when monkeying w/ the harness and ECU. The connections are like in a PC; pretty fragile and susceptible to bending.)

We went through all this to give an idea of where to look and say:

IT IS REALLY A GOOD INVESTMENT TO GET A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL IF YOU PLAN ON WORKING ON YOU CAR YOURSELF.

In the manual there are plenty of illustrations and instructions to make the above diagnostic VERY easy.
A&W
'91 s13

After checking the egr valve, bpt valve, exhuast gas sensor, egr canister valve, etc. why am I stll getting a code 32?

Solution:

Check the intake manifold exhaust gas chambers and inlet ports for clogging. Remove the intake air plenum and then the brass plugs and make sure the inlet ports are unobstructed by cleaning them with a coat hanger wire. Boy was I surprised how much exhaust debris and clogging I found in mine.

Nick Delli Quadri
Email: [email protected]